Lightbox #1: ISSUE 594

Noa Deane & the term ‘Free Surfer’.

The way it rolls off the tongue the term ‘Free Surfer’ makes it sound like an easy gig. One pictures a life bereft of accountability to a boss or for that matter the rigid time-constraints of a contest heat. Instead of a daily grind it’s all about long sessions in the water and slow-drifting through the moments in between, pausing briefly to make travel plans for the next exotic location. One can forget that in order to perpetuate their bohemian, barrel-riding existence Free Surfers have to set a high bar. You must constantly find new and innovative ways to impress a surfing public that is over-saturated with dazzling imagery if you want to cultivate a following, and convince sponsors of your worth. Over the last decade Noa Deane (pictured) has proven himself to be a master of the Free Surfing art.

If Noa is not hovering above the lip in a steezy pose, he’s hurtling through cavernous, green-lit pits like this one; showcasing a dynamic, high- risk act laced with a compelling mix of flair and nonchalance. So what is a Free Surfer’s job? Well, while we navigate the hectic and humdrum elements of everyday life, Noa is out there on the fringes, reminding us how high and how deep we can go, if we really try.

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Lightbox #2: ISSUE 594

The Feared Desert Point Section known as ‘The Grower’.

“When surfers hear mention of Desert Point they typically picture a stretched ribbon of swell that miraculously maintains its hollowed-out symmetry for hundreds of metres. In the right angle of swell the wave moves at an optimal pace and proficient tube riders can go behind the curtain for well beyond ten seconds; invariably it has often been called the most perfect wave in the world. However, just beyond the point where the main wave finally tapers into a fragmented section of reef, is another take-off section known affectionately as The Grower. The Grower is a far more fickle beast – chunkier with split-lips and serious close-out potential. However, the wave tends to base- ball bat, fanning the barrels bigger and wider – thus “The Grower’. It’s sheer roundness and technical barrel riding requirements means it often attracts superior tube riders looking for something more challenging than the main wave’s hypnotic perfection. It’s also a place to escape the soul-crushing crowds up the point.

“The Grower is a wave of consequence and most people that surf it respect some kind of priority system,” explains Jyoti Walker ( pictured above). “I was last in line when a wide one came through that no one wanted. The wave was super-clean and rifling-off down the line. I remember being totally mesmerised by the celestial blue of that wave.” Jyoti’s craft of choice for taking on the girth of The Grower was a 5’2 Tropical Keel Fish shaped by Ross Concept. “Plenty of entry rocker through the nose and a fairly flat bottom into a double concave,” he explains. Jyoti admits other surfers sometimes suggest he should be riding longer, narrow, curvier equipment at a wave like The Grower, but although the flat-Fish gamble doesn’t always pay off, Jyoti insists when he gets the line …

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