Before he hit double figures, Tahiti’s Matahi Drollet was drawn to the ominous wave on his doorstep. A bright student, who was sent away to boarding school, he could have pursued other paths, but instead he answered the call of Teahupo’o. Following in his brother’s footsteps, Matahi has become the preeminent performer at the thunderous left. Now aged 24, it seems Matahi no longer measures his rides in magnitude or size but in how nonchalant he can appear when entombed by violent curls of ocean.