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Talking Big-Wave Surfing And El Niño With Ross Williams

Waimea is still relevant, Jaws is “insane” and his three favourite big-wave surfers.

Ross Williams is a name synonymous with the Momentum generation of the 90s. You know, Kelly Slater, Kalani Robb, Shane Dorian, Rob Machado. The smooth regular foot from Haleiwa was a fixture in Taylor Steele films: Momentum, Loose Change and Hit and Run and had a nine-year career on the then ASP (now WSL) tour. Ross hung up the jersey in 2000. The following year he placed 4th in the Quiksilver in Memory of Eddie Aikau big-wave event. Since 2014 he’s been employed by the WSL full-time as one of their colourful and insightful commentators. His observations are always sharp when it comes to all things pro surfing.

So who better to speak to about the challenges Quiksilver have faced running The Eddie this season, the El Niño winter and the state of big-wave surfing. Tracks spoke to Ross earlier this week as Hawaii experiences one of the biggest swells to hit Oahu in 18-years with a potential green light for the Eddie tomorrow.

Tracks: Tell me about that session at with Kelly at Waimea? A big one picked you both off.

Ross Williams: We saw Masson before we paddled out. He just got a closeout set on the head and got swept back to he shore. He told us if we could make it out to he line up he’d buy us lunch. We jumped in after a 10 minute lull (I told Kelly it was a bad idea) and didn’t make it more than a 100 yards off shore before one of the biggest sets of the day came in and closed out the bay. My leash busted on he first wave. Kelly got pushed into the shore break and took a couple on the head before he pulled his vest and made it in. I heard Mason’s commentary was all time! Haha. No lunch for us.

Tracks: The Eddie could go tomorrow. What’s the vibe like over there?

The vibe is great. Most surfers are actually trying to pace themselves a bit. There have been nonstop waves the past few months. Lots of fatigue and injuries. But over all people are buzzing from all the good surf. Swell looks good for Thursday. Should be a great way to cap off the winter.

Tracks: Do you think Waimea is still as relevant as it was 10 years ago?

In my eyes Waimea will always be more than relevant in big wave surfing. You have to understand, it’s not Jaws or Mavericks. Everyone knows those spots produce crazier waves and rides. But when Waimea is 20’+ (Hawaiian) it’s a very demanding drop and it’s scarier than shit. Ask any madman i.e. Shane, Healy or John John and they will agree that Waimea does more than enough to test your big wave skills when it’s pumping. Mavericks is hollower and Jaws is bigger but that’s okay. It’s good to have variety.

Tracks: Public sentiment would indicate that Jaws is now the undisputed high performance big-wave location.

Jaws is insane. This wave is an angry overgrown wedge. It gets huge all the time, it’s hollow as hell and it windy. It’s really a tow wave that guys are taking on with their bare hands. It’s incredible what these guys are doing out there and it will always be the place to see how hard you can go in big-wave surfing period.

Tracks: Why do you think surfers are more interested in proving themselves at Jaws rather than Waimea? It feels like the epicentre of big-wave surfing this winter.

There’s been a couple of crazy days this year at Waimea with many big names out there going hard. It’s not all Jaws all the time but it’s no secret that Jaws is the best big wave in the world and it has all the attention that a lot of these pros need to get exposure for their sponsors.

Tracks: This Hawaiian

El Niño season will go down as one to remember – especially for big-wave surfers.

It’s pretty amazing what all these guys are doing in big waves. This winter will go down in history as one of the best and we still have a few more months to go! John John has been going off at Waimea and other spots too. Luke Shepardson had and amazing session yesterday at Waimea. There’s a lot of new blood in the big wave game.

Tracks: Who are your three current favourite big-wave surfers in the world?

John John because he surfs big waves like he surfs Pipe. He performs. Shane Dorian because he’s looney and he backs it up with skill and wit. Aaron Gold because he’s pure. He shapes his own boards. Has minimal backing but still dedicates himself to the game. And most Importantly he’s an absolute coo coo brain when an 80 footer comes his way.

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