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Lee Wilson Takes a 5’8” to a Gunfight

“It was terrifying, even from the beach.”

The world’s best big wave surfers arrived in Lagundri Bay for last month’s mega swell packing big boards and impact vests. Not Lee Wilson, he took the scenic route and ended up at the iconic north Indonesian right hander with a 5’8” and two stock boards.

"This swell popped up and it was super hyped,” Lee explains in the synopsis for this clip. Like “Biggest in Ten Years” big. Brixton was backing it, so I decided to get out there. 

“I had a shorty and a 5’8" slab board I designed with my shaper. On the way to the airport I picked up two stockies. Took me 24 hours to get there. Did my best to cut costs so I witnessed some weird shit on the way, I'll save that story for another day. When I got there, it was about three times bigger than I expected, and to be honest, I felt pretty insignificant out there. The best big wave surfers in the world were all there wearing what they call an "impact vest”. Basically it's a thick vest that is designed to help you float you to the top and protect your tail bone from heavy impact against coral.

“Big Wednesday comes and I ride a stock 6’2" and ended up wiping out so bad (I have trouble riding step ups) and I sat the rest of the day out and watched..it was terrifying, even from the beach. Honest. I knew the next day was gonna be solid as well and when I woke up it’s flames. I took a out my 5’8" and got some really fun rides, I dare say I had the trip of my life."

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