Kirk Bierke has been in the board building game since 1975, and has spent the majority of his shaping career on the North Shore of Oahu. That two line CV alone is a valuable recommendation, especially if you are chasing a big wave board. Bierke moved to Australia seven years ago and is now based in Ulladulla, where he’s been known to paddle in to some of the region’s heavier “tow slabs”. On a nine foot board mind you. Tracks caught up with Bierke recently and started by asking: why leave Hawaii?
Leaving Hawaii was a very difficult decision, with so many friends, the incredible surf and the constant shaping inspiration. However as the years went by the North Shore became a very busy place. Since my first trip to Australia in ’81 I’ve always had a soft spot for the fun-loving lifestyle and the natural beauty of Australia. Being married to an Aussie, the desire for a rural setting to raise our children made moving to Australia an easy decision. Plus there are so many great waves down here.
I understand that first trip to Oz began with a camping trip at Treachery with the legendary photographer/kneeboarder Peter Crawford?
Meeting Peter was a fantastic experience. We were introduced at the Energy factory and he was heading up the coast and invited me to come along. He set me up so well, helping me find a car, camp provisions, and pointing out areas on the map. Peter’s name wasn’t so well known in the U.S. and I didn’t realize who he was until after he had continued on his way. I should have known though, he had a camera with him at all times shooting everything: raindrops on leaves, footprint in the sand, mosquitoes… you name it, click click click.
Let’s talk about boards. What’s the most common mistake surfers making when ordering a custom?
Most customers are really good about giving their shaper creative freedom and that’s a really important thing. Other surfers get hung up on exact dimensions and take it a little too far. Of course its good to tell a shaper the basics – width, height and thickness – as it gives us a perimeter to base the shape on. However, trying to adhere to exact nose and tail widths and rocker dimensions can really restrict a shaper and not allow him to use the curves he knows will result in a top performance surfboard.
What do you make of the retro movement. Trend or here to stay?
Elite surfing has led us to ultra sensitive equipment designed for mind-boggling manoeuvres and that’s great. But the other side of the coin is that possibly as many as 75% – 80% of the surfers in the world will actually be at a disadvantage trying to ride a design created for a pro surfer, especially in everyday average conditions. “Retro” boards on the other hand are comprised of lower rockers, extra widths and thickness, and fin configurations that are plain and simple easier to ride. And guess what? They’re fun!! Surfers of all ability levels are discovering the benefits of enhanced paddling, glide, trim, and smoother riding style that “retro” models offer even in average conditions. The downside is that many of the true replicas of the past just won’t allow for progressive surfing and I personally favour blending the elements of paddle power, glide, and easy riding from the past with modern features that will allow for progressive riding for those interested in getting the best of the old and the new.
Where are we going with surfboards? What will be the next big break through?
On the design front I’d love to see the top level performers coming up with some wild new ideas like they used to (pre 80’s). I’d like to see cutting edge new designs, instead of refining and recycling all the contours and design features of the past. But since top surfers have stopped shaping their own equipment that might be a big ask. For construction – non-toxic materials that allow for even better performance than today’s equipment.
Finally, what’s your advice for paddling into death slabs? A nine foot board seems to go against the current grain by three foot or so…
Every reef has it’s own peculiarities, some just won’t let you in until the swell hits the ledge so you don’t want too long of a board. If that’s the kind of wave you’re dealing with thickness can help you paddle super fast and get into it. The wave you’ve mentioned is the opposite, it has a launching ramp outside of it that the swell stands up on before it hits the ledge. If you’ve got enough board it’ll get you onto the swell and over the hump before it’s too late. I’m talking a board that’s 9’0″ -10’0″ plus. Many people think you’ll never be able to ride in the barrel with a board that long but it’s just not true – the bigger boards work really well in the barrel if they are shaped correctly. Waimea’s a slab, it’s a good example. Everyone knows the type of boards used there. Possibly the most common mistake is trying to ride a board without enough paddle speed to get into it ’cause speed is crucial. My only other advice is: DON’T paddle in from the shoulder.
– Kirk Owers
Pic (portrait): Dean Dampney
