Cross Roads: ISSUE 594

Rising junior, Oscar Salt, fades left and moves into wide-open space.

It’s all about timing and decision making this surfing game. Even before you enter the water you’ve got decisions to make: what board, which fins, where to go, what to tell your boss when you return sun-fried and barrel-lit three hours late. Timing must be spot on.

You’ve got to sync with tides, offshores, banks, swell directions, moon phases and absent crowds. On the wave itself, timing and decision-making are everything. Get them wrong and you might as well take up knitting.         

Aspiring pros seem to absorb all this stuff instinctively. But while they fine-tune their wave-riding skills they’ve got many other career-altering decisions to make – often on the fly. Boomerang Beach junior, Oscar Salt, is accustomed to the up and downs of surf career pursuit. He’s been at it since he pulled on an oversize rashie and started winning micro grom heats by a lunar distance in the BBB boardriders. 

Back then, he had a dream shared with hundreds of groms around the country. “Making the world tour and winning a World Title that’s what everyone aims for when they start out. That’s the dream life,” reflects Oscar today. The polished natural-footer finished high school last year and, like all school leavers, has been weighing up his future options. 

There’s been plenty of surfing high points along the way for the teenager. Stints in Hawaii. Trips to Northern Indo. Countless missions interstate and up and down the east coast. There’s been free boards, mini-movies, sponsorship deals. On the comp scene, he’s won multiple regional and national Grom Comp Titles, been a state and national finalist, and claimed a Rip Curl Grom Search at pumping six-foot Merewether.  

But just as young Salty has started to gain some down-the-line momentum there’s been injuries and setbacks. His back has been a …

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TREASURED ISLANDS: Issue 588

Samoa is a balm for the soul but what about the waves?

ROBERT LOUIS STEVENSON WAS NOT A SURFER BUT HE WAS A LONG-HAIRED REBEL WHO UNDERSTOOD THE URGE TO SUCK THE NECTAR FROM YOUR ALLOCATED TIME ON EARTH

Were he alive today, the author of Treasure Island and Dr Jekyll would no doubt be bearded and barrel-mad in some remote corner of Indonesia. But Stevenson was born in Edenborough in 1850 to a family of engineers, lighthouse builders and po-faced preachers. Long before he became a famous author and travel writer, Stevenson was a striving artist and his family’s oddball.

To justify his defiant life choices he penned a provocative essay called An Apology for Idlers.Substitute ‘idlers’ for ‘surfers’ and it provides a handy set of excuses with which to enlighten those who would stand in the way of your next surf adventure. Though highly educated,Stevenson railed against formal learning.“Books are good enough in their own way, but they are a mighty bloodless substitute for life,” he wrote, praising instead the virtues of truancy, self-learning and pleasure. “A happy man or woman”, he reasoned, “is a better thing to find than a five-pound note. He or she is a radiating focus of goodwill.”

After a life of travel and adventure, LouisStevenson finally laid roots in the hills aboveApia on the Samoan island of Upolu. Not long after Britain had ceased overseas convict transportation, the Scotsmen was ticking off jaunts to America, Hawaii, Australia, TheGilbert Islands and Tahiti. Places that are not short of beauty and intrigue and yet he ultimately chose Samoa. Why Samoa? It’s a question that follows me around like a stray dog when I spend a week exploring the islands. The primary concern, however, is: Where are all the waves hiding?

Samoa has always felt a bit shy and enigmatic tome. I’ve heard many and varied reports about …

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Shine A Light: Issue 586

Mental health educators man anchor empower individuals with the knowledge to save lives.

Man Anchor founder, Steven Gamble has been roaming Australia’s east coast these last four years spreading the good word about mental health. Being swallowed up by depression or spun wild by anxiety is as common as house bricks but many of us don’t have the language or the knowledge to confidently discuss them.This worsens an already big problem. Nearly50% of Australians will experience a mental health disorder in their life while suicide kills more young males than any other cause. The Man Anchor message is that we can all learn to look after ourselves and our mates with a bit more knowledge, training and empathy. Tracks spoke with Steven to learn more.

What are the signs that a friend is struggling with mental ill health issues?
There are four major categories to keep an eye on. Behavioural change. If you’re not seeing someone do something they love or acting in unusual ways – isolating or engaging in risk taking behaviours. Then there’s the thoughts and feelings category – when someone reacts differently to life changing circumstance and how they navigate life. They might be over-whelmed, indecisive, disappointed or sad.There are physical shifts as well – weight gain or loss, looking tired due to insomnia or experiencing gastrointestinal problems. You put all these together and you notice a big shift or a series of minor shifts in a person’s well-being– that’s a good indication that something maybe going on.

What do you say to someone who seems to be struggling but doesn’t want to talk about it?
If you come to someone without judgement and you let them know you’ve seen changes in them and that you’re concerned and that you want to support them. If you can do that with empathy and without judgement you create an opportunity for connection. …

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