While the jaw-dropping footage from Hawaii in the past month suggests performance big-wave surfing has reached a new threshold, it’s worth noting that waves of consequence were also ridden in Australia last week.
When a heaving south-east swell smashed into the east coast last Thursday a host of premier waves turned on. The clips below by serial big wave bandit Spencer Frost ( Spencer captured Chris Lougher’s epic ride at Deadman’s last year) showcase a certain bommie that has become a focal point for the big wave aficionados Down Under.
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The opening wave features Paul ‘Mad Dog’ Morgan. Around ten years ago Morgs was very much at the frontline of the Oz, big-wave scene. Morgs, an unassuming south coast lad, scored a host of Mag covers and was recognised by his peers for being one of the most fearless surfers in the world.
Family commitments may have made it difficult for Morgs to chase swells with the sort of wanderlust he might like in recent times, but when the waves around his south coast home turn on, he remains a genuine presence in the lineup.
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