Tasmanian hell man Michael ‘Mikey’ Brennan gives Tracks a blow-by-blow of how he smashed his vertebrae…

A tow session with good friend Marti Paradisis turned real bad for Tasmania’s ‘Mikey’ Brennan on Wednesday when he inexplicably fell at the bottom of a 12-foot-plus monster at a place called Governor Island on the East Coast of Tasmania and was unmercifully sucked over the falls. The not so secret (but rarely on) beast breaks in front of a dry shelf that would put 99% of surfers off the idea of tackling the joint period – let alone when it’s pushing fifteen feet and is as thick as it is high. Despite all this though Mikey and Marti ripped as per usual. With local photographers Andrew Chisholm and Stu Gibson lenses up and at the ready in the channel. Three waves in mike had his little slip up… and the consequences were dire. Tracks gave Mike a call for a blow-by-blow.

That was one hell of a wipe-out bro, could be the best ever?

Oh, so devo, blew it! I don’t know what happened? I just feel off. I would of got so barreled had I made it.

You can see a small ridge in the wave between just between your feet (in front of your toe side rail) that might have done it?

Maybe, that and the board I was riding was shaped by one of my mates, Brook, and it was one of the first boards he’s ever shaped too.

Probably not the place to test it?

I just thought it’d be good cause it wouldn’t snap. The only other board I had was a 5’8’ and I wasn’t to keen to take that out there. The board looks real small in the photos though too.

Looking at the last shot it was hell of a barrel on the inside?

It would have been mental. It looks like death but once you make it there you’re sweet. But where I feel off is right in front of a dry ledge… last night I was having these dreams that I was getting sucked over again and again and my whole body was falling. I was replaying it – so heavy.

Like the classic falling dream?

Yeah, like that but not slow. Fast! I kept waking up; it was fucking heavy re-living it.

When you get sucked up on a wave that big, it must feel like an eternity?

Once I feel off I was like, “Fuck, this is not happening right now!” Then I went up and it was all slow then once I got to the top it went so quick. I went down so quickly and was compressed on my arse. I thought I was fucked! I thought I was quad for sure. It was only my third wave and I’m so devastated it happened.

How long were you under for?

I was held under for two waves, so a long time I guess. When I finally came up I was so surprised, I’d hit so hard, and heard my whole back crack, I thought, ‘I’m fucked’, and I gave up pretty much. I was so relaxed that it didn’t matter how long I was under water for. Apparently the next one was that got me was even gnarlier? Then when I came up I was sweet, I could have stayed down for so much longer. I was tweaked from it all but surprised I could grab the Jet Ski and pull myself up on it. My knees were sort of working…

Did you think to watch your spinal cord?

Yeah, I just lay on the back of the ski and kept it straight. Then I started getting angry that I’d fucked up and wanted to go back out as well. But I was like, ‘Nah, I’m fucked.’

When you got sucked over the last bit whit the water with lip how shallow was it?

It was so shallow. I went from such a big height straight into shallow reef. They way I’d explain it is, get a teddy bear and push it into the ground as hard as you can. That’s what my body was doing with the weight of the water on my back. Pretty rattling really.

Glad to hear your out of hospital and able to walk around?

So stoked. I have a real good mate actually, who’s in a wheel chair from diving into a pool, so it’s always in the back of my mind. Especially out there cause its such a fucken gnarly shelf. It sticks out of the water and is jut evil. Past that and you’re sweet but, I just didn’t get there…

Are you guys going too hard down there or what? Seriously. If you showed these photos to someone who didn’t surf there’s no way they’d think you even survived.

If I’d hit my head I’d be dead for sure. I feel pretty lucky and I’m happy that I’m still alive. I’ve had so many injuries. I’ve only just started surfing again after ten-weeks out due to an ankle injury.

How’s your health insurance?

My dads actually a doctor in there, and he knows all the doctors so he asked me to bring in my laptop and show them all the photos and stuff… they looked after me.

Your insurance company might start asking questions, “Who’s this guy down in Tasmania? He’s costing us a fortune!”

Yeah, they might get suss on me.

You’re a lucky man Mikey, thanks for chatting, now go buy a lottery ticket.

Cheers mate.

All Pics: Andrew Chisolm / andychiz.com