John John Florence
You believe in the power of good over evil, even though this is surfing and there isn’t any evil, except maybe the judges sometimes, and Rosy Hodge … well not evil, but sinful maybe, her body, her accent … but anyway, you believe in John John. You believe that a talent and a passion so pure and unpretentious and absurd when combined with moving water should win whatever accolade stands before it, should capture our dull-eyed attention, should make the sport great again.
More than anything, though, you appreciate really good surfing, even if you can’t understand what he’s doing half the time.
Matt Wilkinson
You love Matty Wilko for the same reason you love your mates, the same reason you love yourself at times. He’s human, and flawed, and sometimes he says something funny and sometimes he says something awkward, and sometimes he has an all-time shocker in the middle of a world title campaign, but when he’s on, it’s a beautiful thing. It’s a victory for everyone. It’s a reason to go out and get so drunk you lose your wallet and spend the next two weeks chasing up IDs and bank cards. Because Matty Wilko rips, and Matty Wilko parties, and Matty Wilko doesn’t really look any better in a wetsuit than you do … and when it comes to world champions, they’re the kind of qualities you want to see in a bloke.
24hrs with WILKO – TEAHUPO`O, TAHITI from Tristan Houghton on Vimeo.
Gabriel Medina
You’re subversive by nature. You get a kick out of a good upset. You can look at the whole Brazil vs. Australia thing and see it for the lame, worn-out, cheap-shot brawl it is. In fact, there’s nothing better than hearing the uproar from the bleachers when Gabby claims one. What you appreciate more though is the spectacle of seeing someone so preternaturally competitive dominate their opposition. Or if not dominate, do everything in their power—snake, steal, kick, cry, fade—to win. That’s exciting. That’s what competitive sport is all about.
Having a friendly game of cards with Gabs, on the other hand, doesn’t sound fun. That’s not something you’d want to do.
Mick Fanning
When it comes to your champions, you like them tough, hard-won, tortured even. Lots of obstacles along the way, lots to overcome. You eat up a good Hollywood underdog story. Nothing beats Rocky. ADRIAANNN! But what really captures your imagination, what really gets you revved-up about the Micks of the world, is their focus and dedication. The way they cultivate their strengths and eliminate their weaknesses. The way they confront unthinkable odds and somehow walk away wiser and more resilient. The way Mick takes apart a right-hander like no one really can and makes you wonder what’ve you been doing all these years.
That, and the fact there’s this wild bastard living inside of him called Eugene, and you just know he wants to come out.
Kelly Slater
Aliens exist.
