In surfing you have to pay to play. Every heroic ride you see on your social media is often coupled with wipeouts and near makes in the same session. However, it is usually only the A-grade content that makes it to the feed.
South African big wave surfer Matt Bromley has decided to take people behind the curtain by starting a new YouTube series covering some of his worst wipeouts.
In episode one Matt shares a story from a session at an outer bombie called Sabatu which is situated around the corner from the famous right hand freight train known as Nias in Indonesia.
Matt describes how the wave breaks in front of a coral rock ledge which was raised out of the water after the 2004 earthquake.
During this one particular session, which he shared with fellow charger Alex Gray, Matt can be seen pulling into a huge 15ft right hand teepee which, on takeoff, has the stereotypical groomed blue Indo canvas look. However, once he makes the drop the wave stretches out too far and despite his best attempt at pumping through the barrel, the wave swallows him up and sends him into the coral ledge.
Click the link above to find out more about one of the ‘heaviest experiences’ of Matt’s life.
