The word crazy doesn’t cover what happened to us in the first 24 hours of this trip. Let’s just say surfing a never before surfed spot, shooting stars and volcanic eruptions had a lot to do with it. No one expected, nor dreamed of the light and lava show we were lucky enough to witness. Mind blowing doesn’t cover it. |
The word crazy doesn’t cover what happened to us in the first 24 hours of this trip. Let’s just say surfing a never before surfed spot, shooting stars and volcanic eruptions had a lot to do with it. No one expected, nor dreamed of the light and lava show we were lucky enough to witness. Mind blowing doesn’t cover it. Drinks were shared and after a night under motor we awoke to a picture perfect One Palm Point on Panaitan Island.
Tommy Carroll was the first out, and Tommy doll, as we’re now calling him (only behind his back of course) was all over (and in) it.
Next cab off the rank was Mitch Rawlins Tracks crazy big wave bodyboarding guest from West Oz and Shaun Cansdell. These two averaged so much tube time at days end we calculated it in minutes. The rest of the boys all took their turn parking bums and hands in the barrel for stupid amounts of time before night fell and we headed back on our way north west.
The next days surfing went down at Sumatran Pipeline. A wave worthy of surfing but whoever named it has either never been to the real Pipe or was drunk on arak at the time. Needless to say Jay Davies, Dean Brady and Mark Mathews were belting it backhand and once again Shaun, TC and Mitch found spitting bowls in the deserted and somewhat disjointed line up. While far from Pipeline, scoring this Sumatran pot-of-gold all to ourselves and in fair winds with beautiful weather was a well-weighted score in any surf junkies eyes.
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