In the mythology of surfing, the North Shore of Oahu has and always will be both the proving ground and the promised land. But unless you’ve walked the famous bike path that runs alongside the Kamehameha Highway or watched the horizon fill with lines from Pipe’s hallowed sand, then the stories that filter back each winter are mostly a jumble of exotic wave names and scattered heroics, with no reference as to where one break lies in regard to another and what each wave along the seven-mile miracle is apt to do when the swell rolls in. With eighteen seasons under his belt and twelve years spent living in Hawaii, ex-Lennox Head local and international Go Pro ambassador Anthony Walsh has gotten to know the North Shore intimately, and here he offers a detailed guide to the most frequented breaks along the legendary stretch, starting from Haleiwa and working his way north.
Haleiwa
Haleiwa can be safe for the kids and learners or really dangerous for the pros. When it's small it has a small reform for beginners but once it hits 4-6’ it gets a really strong current. When it's big the current sucks you out and the waves push you in, so the impact zone can be one of the most dangerous places on the North Shore. Best on more west direction swells, and blocked from north swells. It's also protected from the trade winds.
Laniakea
A right-hand point break that loves a north direction swell. The bigger it is the higher your skill level needs to be. Protected from the north winds and strong trade winds.
Waimea Bay
The big wave spot of the North Shore. Starts breaking at 6-8’ but doesn't really begin until it's 10-12’. It's also protected from strong trade winds. Expert level only—even the shore break is a task to get through. But if it's flat Waimea is amazing and for everyone, even sailboats park in the bay to get out of the wind when there’s no swell in the summer time.
Keiki Shore-break
Famous for being one of the heaviest if not the heaviest shore-breaks in the world. More people than anywhere have been swept out to sea and needed rescuing here. Can look flat, then a set will come and sweep you right off the beach. Because it goes from deep to shallow water really quickly it has a lot of energy and current. Experts only unless there’s no swell. Even 3’ can be very dangerous.
Log Cabins
Great wave in the early season when all the rocks are covered by sand, but after the first couple of swells it has some scary random rocks. Good in a north swell. When it’s small and there’s sand it’s fun for the average guy. When it’s bigger or there’s no sand it’s for professionals only.
Rock Piles
Is just that—a pile of rocks. If it has sand over the reef it can be fun, but generally it's only good when it's bigger. It's a swell magnet and picks up a lot of swell—always bigger than it looks.
Insanities
A sandbar next to Off the Wall. Can have fun peaks depending on the sand. Only good when it’s smaller and generally pretty dumpy.
Off the Wall (OTW)
Reef-bottom right with occasional left. Not always makeable but many waves of the winter have been caught here. Pros only, best in a northwest swell. Maxes out at 8’.
Backdoor
The right at Pipeline which runs into OTW. Really shallow and scary on the inside. It’s a tricky wave most of the time because you have to doggie-door it. For pros only, best in a northwest swell.
Pipeline
My personal favourite and generally the most crowded wave on the North Shore. It's the proving ground for pros, with big fast-moving swells. Gnarly localism and heavy barreling waves. Best on a west-northwest swell. Better when all the reef is exposed and the sand has been washed away.
Ehukai
A sand bar next to Pipe for when the swell is 4’ and under. Just random peaks up and down a stretch of beach. Depending on the size it can be good for average guys or pros. It’s good in combo swells because it's peaky.
Pupukea
Where you’ll see the majority of girls and longboarders surfing, with a fun right and sometimes a left. It's where I met my wife! Good in north to northwest swells. Maxes out at 6’.
Rocky Point
One of the most consistent spots on the North Shore, from west to north swells to even east-northeast swells you’ll find rideable waves. Maxes out at 6-8’, for both average guys and pros.
Sunset
Another big-wave spot on the North Shore and also one of the most challenging to read, because it’s such a huge playing field. When it's 2-3’ you can surf the point, then as it gets bigger and depending on the direction it depends on which part you surf—the north peak, the west peak, the inside bowl. It’s mainly for pros unless it's on the point. It's a deep-water big-wave spot and gets pretty crowded. Best in a northwest swell with light winds, because it’s far out even an offshore will make it bumpy.
