The suns starting to set behind the horizon, the pair of us have just returned from a day of chasing waves and the A-frame in front of our resort in Simeulue is overhead, sheet glass and there’s not a soul in the water. We race out to score the last hour of light and split the peak on every set. Fin opts for the hollow left and I choose the longer walling rights.
As we sit in the lineup trying to catch our breath in between non-stop paddling, I take a moment to reflect. I’m sat in warm bath like water, trading perfect teepee’s with my childhood best friend, all I can see for miles is lush green palm trees that sit still in the evening calm and I can barely hear a sound – pure bliss.
We hear a cheer from the beach. The boys from Aura Surf Resort are standing on the porch of the staff bungalow throwing fist bumps in the air in celebration. They share a moment with us, one that is etched in my memory for a lifetime.
Later that evening as we drink bintangs, smoke gudang gurams and share story, Joel, who runs the resort, tells us:
“Boys that session you had this evening, is what success is right there.”
That line resonated with me and has stuck in my mind ever since. He’s right, success shouldn’t be defined by material wealth, objective things or any other figure that mainstream society had led you to believe is the key to a well-lived life.
Success can be defined by small moments, happenings that fill you with warmth and cause you to stop and reflect on just how grateful you are to be in that exact position in time.
I tell this story because I believe this notion of success can be applied to my job too. I’m from Jersey in the Channel Islands which is part of the UK. I studied journalism at University in England and worked for my local newspaper for three years before a stint of travelling and most recently, I moved to Sydney and landed a job as the digital editor and social media manager at Tracks at the start of 2024.
Having surfed since I was grom and been immersed in the culture from a young age, I’m aware that the surf industry is often given a negative reputation for various reasons. However, to me, a gig in the surf industry is still the best job in the world and I am very much living my dream.
When I applied for the role at Tracks, Luke, my editor, told me it wasn’t going to be the yellow brick road and the white picket fence. What he meant was; it’s not going to pay anything extraordinary.
But what is my idea of the white picket fence? For some, it’s monetary wealth. For Luke, it’s the sneaky lunchtime surfs, the strike missions and the extra time he gets at home with his recently born child. Having been in the job for a few months, I’m already building my own white picket fence and creating my idea of success.
I’ve already found success in so many small things, moments on the job that bring me that sense of warmth, fulfilment and cause me to reflect on just how grateful I am to be in my position.
One example is the Easter weekend down at Bells covering my first CT event. I don’t often get star struck but as I wait my turn to catch the world number one Griffin Colapinto after his heat win, my stomach fills with butterflies and I get nervous. While he is just a normal guy, it’s a bucket list moment ticked off interviewing the current best surfer in the world. I grew up idolizing Kelly and Andy, but generations below me look up to Griffin and hundreds of kids would give a lot just to meet him. When I was working at my local newspaper phoning politicians to talk about mind-numbing government policies, I never knew that one day I’d be at the iconic Bells chatting to the CT yellow jersey holder.
The next day the comp was off due to small conditions and we raced down the coast to Johanna where we spent the day jumping from peak to peak, sharing rip bowls with the likes of John John Florence at a location that looks like something out of Jurassic Park. A million miles away from the small Island life I lived in Jersey.
In addition to Torquay, I’ve travelled to Newcastle for a Tracks Party and helped set up one here in Sydney. Organising events, surfing new locations, getting to party and drink for free; isn’t that every young surfers dream?
As well as the standout moments, the lifestyle that comes with the job is something that a 9-5 office gig in a suit and tie could never bring. It’s the sneaky lunchtime surfs, the opportunity to write about topics I’m genuinely interested in and connecting with people who share the same passion for a sport and hobby that has brought us so much including a job, friendships and lifelong memories.
I view my role in the surf industry as a privilege because I’m conscious that not everyone is given the opportunity or the tools to be able to chase their passion. I bring that attitude with me every day. I was once told by one of my university lecturers that journalists are never really off the clock because it’s a lifestyle. But the truth is, am I really ever on the clock?
This job has already brought me so many moments of success, warmth and happiness. Long may it continue to do so.
This is also a message to everyone to follow your dreams, no matter how small or big they may seem. Find what brings you success, warmth and happiness. Look for it in everything you do and go chase that feeling.
