The last six weeks of my trip, it’s time to get it done.

The last six weeks of my trip, it’s time to get it done.

I pondered the last stage of my journey waiting in Puerto Escondido airport for James Sinclair, an Australian surfer joining me on my quest.

It was straight into the water. The waves were fun and James was frothing to be out of his wettie and into some fun Mexican beachies. He crashed hard after the 2 day trip over and three hours in the water so I took the opportunity to get a quiver shot.

We met a local guy who described a long right hand, sandy point break that he wanted to show us. It was a mission to get there. His vivid description of the crystal clear right hand barrels rattled through my head. The windy, dirt road seemed to go forever and as it finally came to an end we were both shaking with anticipation. The sand was excruciatingly hot, even to my 6-month strong feet. As soon as we caught first sight of the translucent blue ocean they were numb.

We watched a wave feel it’s way along the perfect bank barrelling heavily in three sections and we were out there. While getting my gear ready I watched James on his first wave get barrelled three times and spat out. We hoped the wave we surfed all day was a sign of things to come.

After this we continued north dodging dodgy police to explore a different area of coastline. We woke from a heavy nights sleep after an epic day and were welcomed by another perfect wave. This time a hollow, left hand beach break with no one out. Groundhog day…

Note: For past Taco Diary blogs click HERE