The first of many blogs from Tracks senior photographer David Sparks in Hawaii. Sparksy is a seasoned traveller and knows how to position himself for the golden moments, both in and out of the water. |
After an epic early winter (September and October had almost non-stop surf), the last week or so has featured cross shore nor east winds and virtually no swell. Combined with intermittent rainy squalls, the scenario has been very conducive to Polynesian Paralysis, with insanity staved off by hundreds of cable channels, FaceBook and frequent trips to town.
Today, thankfully, there was a small N/N/West push of around 4-5 foot. The winds were still strong, but the more protected coves had some fun waves, and crowds were fairly bearable; the full contingent of the world’s best froth masters is yet to arrive, but planeloads are being dumped in Honolulu daily. The ant trail from the airport to the North Shore is steady and mostly one way traffic. A few are leaving but the majority are bunking down and posting up for a good chunk of the winter.
Pancho Sullivan, a good mate of mine, told me in slightly awed tones about a session at inside Sunset last month he called “the best I have ever seen it – in my life! Absolutely not a drop ouy of place and just a few of us out!” He gushed, as I wept. He also told me of a few sessions he and local mate Myles Padaca have had at some fairly obscure breaks around the Seven Mile Miracle (North Shore). Many of these spots are pretty locally sensitive, and chances are if you stumbled upon them you’d get instant marching orders. If you are traveling solo however, and are low key, you may well be given a free pass. Sometimes you get back the vibe you put out there. Actually, most times, I’ve found.
Today Pancho and Myles took me to a notoriously sensitive local reef break somewhere along the stretch, one rarely shot but when your runnin’ with the boys the wheels are greased. Pancho and Myles have been coaching up and coming groms from all over the world this year, and Pancho sat this session out to keep an eye on a couple of their young charges. Myles got to do the hands on stuff from the water, in other words he went surfing! I shot the session and man it looked fun; gonna try to get out there myself tomorrow, as the swell looks steady at the same size and direction for the next few days.
Words and Photos by Dave Sparkes
(Surfers from top: Eli Visolay, Myles Padaca and Nathaniel Curran)