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“Saturday morning, shin-high surf and I had set my camera up with a fisheye lens to swim out and shoot some underwater photos of any sea life that was hanging around and perhaps even a couple of waves, should one care to break. It was smack- bang in the middle of winter during a somewhat flat-spell, accompanied by textbook, crystal-blue conditions. I noticed a friend of mine Damien Pepper – a local surfer/shaper – had strolled out near where I was hanging. He was just down a bit, right off the back of a razor sharp bank and was probably testing out one of his boards. Out of nowhere pops up what is probably the biggest and only wave that broke that entire day with Damien holding the winning ticket, flying past me through the tube and into the sun. I remember being underwater, watching it through my goggles whilst firing off a burst of photos and thinking to myself what a beautiful moment it was.”
