Watching pro surfers on a live webcast is one thing, but witnessing them from the water is a whole new spectacle.
During an Easter weekend trip to Bells to cover the Rip Curl Pro, I was fortunate enough to share a relatively empty line-up on separate occasions with two of surfing’s most cinematic surfers – Gabriel Medina and John John Florence.
While neither has really hit their stride during competition this year, I found myself in awe at their individual approaches during free surfs.
Following Gabby’s controversial exit in the round of 32 against the eventual bell ringer Cole Houshmand, he took to the mic and protested: ‘This is the worst judging I’ve ever seen. It’s bad for the sport.’
While Gabby remained calm during his post-heat rant, it was evident he needed to do something to get the loss out of his system.
Having just posted a story about his controversial comments, I clocked off to surf a waist-high, onshore left at Jan Juc, a bread and butter beachie near Bells. I was certainly surprised to see Medina paddling out behind me with out-boards on and steam coming out his ears. That distinctive beard-trim gave him a villainous look and I half-wondered if he’d glimpsed the story I’d written, which delved into his post-heat antics. My new-guy anonymity proved an asset as I sat back and enjoyed the Medina show and wondered if perhaps I’d been a little harsh on him.
What proceeded was a lesson for the fortunate few in the water on how to surf sub-par conditions with unparalleled flair. Medina simply took things to a level beyond anything I’d ever seen in conditions like that before.
As Gabby chatted to his sister, who was surfing with him, he didn’t seem to have a care in the world, meanwhile his surfing told a different story.
As he stroked into a wave you could feel the atomic intensity. He would often turn and paddle for a swell before anyone else knew it existed and yet seconds later, just as he predicted, an onshore lump would appear for him. It was almost like he was Poseidon and had godly-like powers, which enabled him to summon a wave.
Gabby then surfed like an F1 racing driver who was trying to set a new best lap time every time he took off. A webcast never does justice as to the speed he can generate from such a mediocre wave.
While most of us were trying to put together a couple of top turns in the meager conditions, Gabby was pulling full rotations with ease and blowing his fins out on almost every turn.
Every time the Brazilian took off, the rest of us would turn back in awe, smiling like we were being treated to the best, free show in town. I remember one wave in particular; he raced down the line and lofted a full rotation, which traversed as far laterally as it did vertically. He disappeared for a second, leading me to think he had finally fallen on one, and was in fact human. However, seconds later, about 10 yards further down the line, he could be seen drifting his fins over the coping like the lip was a half-pipe.
The wave inspired one surfer to clap on his paddle back out, laughing to his mate which acted as a coping mechanism as he quickly realised just how many leagues ahead Medina’s surfing was to the average man.
A couple days later, I travelled a few hours down the coast in search of waves while Bells was small and dribbly. That afternoon I was lucky enough to score a punchy overhead left hand sandbar with only a handful of us out – one of those being John John.
What made John stand out was his unique approach to each wave and the lines he draws. In comparison to Medina, John seemed to surf vertically and a lot more rail to rail. However, the contrast in conditions may explain that.
The two-time world champ often chose a turn no one else would think to do, on a section which wouldn’t necessarily lend itself to that manouevre. Unless you’re a freak like John.
When the Hawaiian was done putting on a powerful backhand display, he and his coach Ross Williams paddled over to a right hand peak further down the beach. With the wind having swung, I had an idea of what his approach may be.
Sure enough, first wave he took off on, he pumped down the line and lofted a huge forehand straight air. Again, seeing a big air on camera is commendable, but watching the trajectory and height he gets in person was incredible.
It was clear his early exit at Bells was not deterring him from having fun as he continued to surf for hours on end, trading between the left hand rip bowl and the empty right hand peak down the beach.
Being involved in the surf industry, I try not to get too star struck. But watching both Gabriel and John was a sight to behold and had me making interjections as I watched from behind each wave they stroked into.
Both occasions acted a reminder to me of the talent they both hold and gives me hope that the pair can challenge for a world title again in the near future.
