I remember being 12 years old in my family loungeroom when AI won his last CT event in Tahiti. I was watching it live on Fuel TV and was a complete frother at the time and clearly recall how stoked the surfing community was for him. Was it the start of a comeback, I thought? This surfer was the only guy ever to dominate Slater? He’s still releasing crazy free-surfing footage, he probably is the best free-surfer going. These were some of the innocent thoughts rolling through my mind as a young grom. A couple of months after the win at Chopes, Andy would pass away travelling home from an event in Puerto Rico where Kelly ultimately claimed his tenth world title.
None of us groms or anyone outside the pro surfing circle had any idea what Andy was going through. However, anyone who’s dealt with mental illness or addiction issues can understand some of the struggles he faced. But I’m sure any human can relate to AI as we all have demons and go through hard times.
When I was going through a bit of a rough trot as they say, the ‘Kissed By God’ documentary was released. It hit a cord with me at the time. I was gloomy and searching for something, like a lot of young men are; determined to find a path for becoming a better person. I watched it at least 20-30 times with a whole bunch of different people, and it made everyone feel deeply. This troubled superhero with a big heart living an extraordinary life, but it all ending in tragedy. As sad as the ending of the film was, it made me want to surf more and make better decisions in my life. Watching it on repeat became a kind of positive addiction.
There was something real and raw and honest about Andy that me and thousands of others appreciated. As I became older and gained a bit of wisdom, I realised why Andy’s 2010 ‘I Surf Because’ clip was the best surf ad of all time. Besides the amazing surfing showcased in the clip, it was a man who’d experienced hell and was on the comeback, expressing his truth.
When Andy passed it was a different time. It’s a beautiful thing how much our society has evolved in relation to these sorts of issues. Mental Health awareness is at an all-time high today, but ten years ago it was not something you casually talked about. Opioid addiction, however, is still one of the worst crises of our time. Prescription pills and the party lifestyle being glorified in surfing culture was a toxic combo, not just for Andy but for a lot of people involved in the sport. However, I’m not here to analyse these issues as it’s complicated but an unhealthy relationship with alcohol and drugs catches up to everyone.
As devastating as the death must have been for his family, friends and the surfing community, AI left a big mark on myself and the next gen of surfers. Sure, he had his faults but he also made you want to be fearless, wear your heart on your sleeve and not give a fuck about what people think about you.
To this day, I also believe Andy has the best style ever. Somehow he combined unpredictability with brashness and made it all look smooth. Occy summed it up best when he said that Andy “surfed like a cat on acid.” Andy’s legacy is still alive today and many of the current pro surfers are clearly influenced by the three-time world champ. Ethan Ewing’s surfing nearly made Ronnie Blakey cry on the live broadcast as his style triggered memories of the legend.
Anyway, RIP to one of the best surfers ever and thanks for the continued inspiration so many years after your passing.
