This was a super last minute strike mission. We left home at 3am to arrive by sunrise. It was a dreamy morning. The wind had been blowing stiff offshore overnight and a low pressure system had been making its way up the coast for the last day so we knew the swell would be settled in. This was the same low that lit up the whole east coast of Oz and Fiji.
The crowds were tame, and I got to see some mates in the water I hadn’t seen in a while and Lachie (Rombouts) was one of them. It’s always an absolute pleasure to watch the man surf. He’s one of the most committed out there and doesn’t fear tucking his giant board under a giant lip.This day was actually my bday too, so it’s easy to say it was the best gift I could have asked for. Hours of perfect 8-12ft barrels in the sun with mates. What more could you want? Check out Sam Venn’s full recount of the Issue 597 cover shot in the clip below.
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How Jessi Miley-dyer pulls her power moves.