“The day before this image was taken the coast was being battered by springtime northerlies, and while it was whipped up a solid ENE swell the wind made it unsurfable junk for the most part. However, those with an astute eye noticed the wind swinging slowly toward the west as the afternoon wore on. Overnight a light westerly worked its magic, not strong enough to kill the swell, but enough to clean it up. The next morning, those who were onto it scored sessions to remember, if they could get out. The relentless sets made it a tough ask just to reach the lineup. It was about as good as this place gets, and probably as uncrowded as I’ve seen it for decades. It was like being transported back in time for a morning”
- Film
- • Jake Stolte
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A reminder of the magic along the seven mile miracle.