The perfect symmetry of this wave makes me wish for two things: firstly, that I was dominating the right in this shot; and secondly, that I was also dominating the left.
Not everyone surfs both ways, even though we know deep down that we all have a burning bi-sectional desire to. We yearn to lay a forehand hack, left or right, at our own discretion, but know without numerous hours of practice, we’ll never achieve equal fluidity.
But despite the subtle complexities of the human condition some surfers are starting to go both ways. Beyond the switch-foot phenomena, some battlers are dropping their leggies and switching agenda’s to see just how well they fare on the other side. I know this because last week I was almost hit in the head by one such aspirant’s unaccompanied board. He later told me of his virtuous quest.
I applaud their efforts even though experts say the ambidextrous are more susceptible to brain disabilities. But if I had to choose between mental disability and surfing waves like this on my forehand for the rest of my life; it would be a no-brainer.