To a normal sports photographer [landlubber], this shot of Hawaiian Keanu Asing would be considered a dud.

Keanu Asing Pic: Smilly

FREE ‘Mondayitis’ WALLPAPER: To any normal sports photographer [landlubber], this shot of Hawaiian Keanu Asing would be considered an A-grade dud. A throw away. “You can’t see his face?” I can hear some photo editor in a non-surf dark room some where in sports newspaper land saying. “That mist ruins any composition values,” his photographer would concur. “He’s just standing there?” They just would not get it.
No amount of mainstream media coverage is going to change that – so tuck that information under your salt water stained pillow and sleep tight tonight. Tight with the knowledge surfing’s most hallowed moments will indeed remain a mystery to most.
The surfer, in a Duke like pose, is Hawaiian Keanu Asing [very fitting]. Keanu, who as a wildcard surfed in his first ever ASP world tour event in New York recently, is standing at the center of the universe as far as we surfers are concerned.
Still in the pit, but miraculously shrouded in minute fragments of water (we call spit), that have been blasted, ahead of time, from within the barrel and out past him onto the face and into the air like tiny diamonds.
No skin stinging sensation as sweat as this oceanic kiss.
Like some kind of memory erasing laser gun from Doctor Who, a wave like this cause your mind to tilt.
Previous waves ridden are forgotten, speech becomes excited and breathy and smiling uncontrollably unavoidable.
Unlike a perpetual ping-pong trophy, no one can take a moment like this from you.
Ever.

This shot (available for DOWNLOAD below) was taken by Simon Williams for our ‘Kids are alright’ story in the October issue of Tracks – OUT NOW

Starring Keanu Asing, Perth Standlick, Garret Parkes , Creed McTaggart , Davey Cathels, Toby Donachie, Kiron Jabour and Peterson Chrisanto.

Pic: Swilly

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