In July of this year, a now infamous code orange swell hit the little island of Tahiti in colossal fashion. Keala Kennelly had hopped a redeye flight from Hawaii the night before, and arrived on the booming shoreline just as the swell began to show itself in the early morning haze. Flying solo – no jet ski, no tow partner, no gaggle of fellow, big-wave lunatics to get psyched up with – KK showed us all, once again, what it means to chase a swell for the rush and the rush alone. She hung in the channel for 5 hours while the boys got their fill, waiting her turn, hoping her numbers would come up before the day was done. Finally, as the sun started to dip towards the West, a local Tahitian named Raimana decided to take a break, and let KK have a dig. Then this happened.

Tracks spoke to Keala Kennelly about riding this monster, about past monsters and the many people who have inspired her throughout her surfing life.

Tracks: What was the vibe in the water? Was it supportive or competitive? Were you the only woman out there?

Kennelly: Yeah I was the only woman out there. The vibe was mellow. It was really uncrowded compared to the last “code red” type swell I chased to Teahupo’o back in May 2013. That swell in 2013 was so crowded and so aggressive with so many skis all fighting for the same waves, it kind of put a bad taste in my mouth. It was really refreshing that this last swell wasn’t like that. It was mellow, everybody was taking turns. I wish it could always be that way. It was special.

Tracks: Talk us through the wave…

Kennelly: I could see that one stacking up on the horizon and I could tell it was going to be a big meaty one and I knew it was my turn so I was like “Yeah! Let’s do this!” So we went for it and I saw the thing dredging off the reef. I let go of the rope and came into it pretty straight on (I feel like you have to come at it pretty straight on when it sucks that hard below sea level, otherwise you risk digging a rail like Niccollo Porcella did. I saw that wipeout from the channel… It was so heavy!). Then I came hard off the bottom and kind of kick-stalled into the barrel and set my line. I thought I had a good line and had a good chance of making it but right then the West bowl bent at me at a 45-degree angle and the bottom of the wave dropped out and I got vaporized by the foam ball. I got slammed down on the reef on my back and my helmet blew right off and I got pinned there on my back getting absolutely flogged. I got up for a breath right as the wave behind it came crashing down on me. That one threw me down on the reef with a lot of force on the whole left side of my body. I charlie-horsed my elbow and thought I broke my hand but then my fingers came back to life so all good, just really painful. Got a couple scrapes but nothing too bad considering.

Tracks: What was the immediate reaction in the water? 

Kennelly: When I got back out to the boat everybody was freaking out. I didn’t know what everybody was so excited about. I was like “I didn’t even make it out of that barrel.” Then Brent Bielmann showed me the photo and I was like “Ohhhhh. Ok. Got it.” It didn’t matter that I didn’t make it out of the barrel, just to stand in a barrel of that size was impressive. Koa, Nathan… nobody ever makes it out one of those massive mutant ones.

Tracks: In May 2013 you faced up to Teahupo’o after your 2011 wipeout and got one of the best waves of your life. Does that wipeout still play on your mind or have you laid those fears to rest?

Kennelly: Oh I still think about that wipeout every time I’m out there. I have to overcome that fear every time, even when it’s small. Teahupo’o is dangerous at any size. That wave has teeth, if you are not on your game you will get bit. Trust.

Kennelly: My first tow-in wave was with Laird [Hamilton] in Kauai. I did a big drawn out bottom turn like I was riding a gun, lost all my speed and the white wash caught up to me and I got absolutely pummeled. I don’t know if I can say I have one mentor in particular… Other than Andy Irons who inspired me more than any other surfer. I have looked up to a lot of people like Laird, Kala, Coco Nogales, Greg, Twiggy, Dorian, the Rothman brothers. The list goes on.

Tracks: In what ways do you think this wave might have helped to breakdown stereotypes of female surfers?

Kennelly: I don’t think anybody imagined a female could ride a wave of this caliber. I mean I didn’t! I surprised myself. I like when I surprise myself and if in doing so I got to crack the glass ceiling a little bit and shatter people’s perceptions of what women are capable of, well shit KK, put a little icing on the cake while you’re at it. 😉