“This is what I live for. This is my life. This is how I provide for my wife and children. Every time I paddle out at Jaws for a heat I’m going for first, nothing less.” A pumped Billy Kemper after winning his third Jaws Challenge in four years.
“I don’t know who you’re blowing in the judging tent @billykemper but I want his number… @kailenny won.”
You’ll go a long month to find a better quote than this one from Albee Layer which contains accusations of bribery, cheating and fellatio. As yet, Billy hasn’t responded.
“Hearts and thumbs-up raced up the side of the screen and the comments, aside from the odd dumb and misogynistic piece of criticism, were almost unwaveringly awestruck and amazed. This shit is crazy! These chicks are tapped!”
Seabird Brooks sums up the general feeling after the women charged in the Jaws Challenge.
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“It was massive, call it what size you like. It reared up like a giant pyramid and went top-to-bottom. I’d pulled one chord, but didn’t have time to dive down. It broke and the apex of the whole wave landed directly three metres in front of me. I was on the surface and just braced for impact. It felt like I had been hit by a train.” Dylan Longbottom talks through what it’s like to get mowed down by a 50-footer at Nazare.
“In the US, one site in California and one in Arizona have been marked out and early stage design is underway for each. There is also one site in Western Australia as well as in London, Spain and Brazil. Licensees for all 6 sites intend to commence construction in 2019, with completion in 2020.” From a Surf Lakes press release outlining the giant plunger’s attempt to take over the world.
“If this is the last time I ever stand on stage, surfing has been amazing to me. I love it. Next year I’ll just be a surf fan like all you guys, can’t wait. I’ll always love surfing. It’s given me everything.” Parko winds the clock both backwards and forwards after a winning the Hawaiian Pro.
“So long derided as a fat burger that doesn’t match anything like Jaws and Mavericks as a big wave destination, today it showed its true potential. It wasn’t fat. It was lean and mean.” The Nazare Challenge cemented the Portuguese beachbreak in the big-wave pantheon.
“He was being a dick.” Rob Machado on Kelly Slater in the documentary Momentum Generation recalling the time when at the height of their world title battle, Kelly stole three boards made for Rob, stickered them up and rode them.
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“Back then they were just bulletproof surf stars that we were all trying to emulate. In ‘Momentum Generation’ they become a little more human, with psychological scars, character flaws and personal challenges to overcome just like the rest of us. Maybe we end up liking them even more.” The Ed gives his take on the documentary.
