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While we anxiously wait for competition to resume in the Pipeline Pro we figured it was a good opportunity to touch base with three-times Pipe Masters Campion, Tom Carroll. Tom’s exploits at Pipe, (including the ‘Snap that was heard around the world’) are frequently referenced, however he also enjoyed success at Sunset (The second event on the Hawaiian leg of the 2023 CT). Below Tommy talks Eddie Aikau, Hawaiian leg predictions, big waves in his backyard and the benefits of meditation.  

Tracks: Did you watch the Eddie ?

TC: Yes.

What are your thoughts ?

It was the best Eddie I’ve seen.  Just perfect Waimea.  It’s a very special wave. Was pretty close to 2009, constant waves, just wave after wave all day closing out the bay.  Was great to see that surf lifesaver (Luke Shepardson) win.  I mean he actually treated other surfers during the day.

Any pangs of wanting to be out there yourself ?

Yeah there were actually moments when it felt like it would have been great to be a part of it.

How are you with the big wave action  these days ? I know you surfed that huge wave on the Northern Beaches last year that you said you’d been watching your whole life and that was your first time surfing it.

Avericks. (No, it’s not a Mavericks typo it’s a Sydney wave)  Last year. Yeah, that was a first.  There were a couple of firsts last year.  With the big waves I don’t seek it but am still in love with it. Sometimes I get a froth up but it’s not like I’ve gotta do it like I used to.  I think that’s just old age ! Hopefully it’s a graceful movement away from it.

I read once where you rated Sunset as one of your favourite three waves

Definitely one of my favourite waves and still love surfing big Sunset. 

Did you have much competitive success  there Tommy ?

I did actually.  I won two events there, one of them was my first in 1982.  I knew I could win at Pipe but I wanted to win at Sunset first.  No one had won at Sunset on their backhand before.  MR came second that time too which felt great because he beat me to win Bells earlier in that year. 

What about Pipe ? I remember a few years ago when they got a few guys from your generation in for an exhibition heat and you killed it.  In fact you were surfing better than some of the current guys out there.  Do you miss surfing Pipe ?

No ! No one gives you much out there.  It’s dog eat dog. 

You don’t miss the pack huh ?

Nooo.  These days I like to do my own thing, try to stay away from the crowds.

Who can you see doing well in Hawaii this year and on the tour in general ?

Zeke at Sunset. Colapinto is pretty hot for a big result too I reckon.  Ethan and Jack.  And Filipe maybe looking for a big result in heavier waves.

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I was just watching a bit of ‘Make or Break’ the surfing doco and it shows how much it might have meant for Filipe to win the title last year, were you happy to see him win ?

TC: Oh yeah. He’s a good bloke and his whole family are good people, his dad was on tour with me, good guy.

We were talking before about the ‘Girls Don’t Surf’ doco your brother was a part of, what are your thoughts and recollections about women’s surfing back in the eighties ?

Back then there wasn’t a great awareness.  That time came straight out of old ideas around women staying in the home.  It was a very different time.  But those women, Pam Burridge,  Frieda Zamba, they really paved the way for what was to come.  And Lyn Boyer before that.  Talk about strong spirit.

What did you think about Steph’s win last year ?

Steph was my pick as best surfer on the day at Trestles during WSL Finals. She lifted her performance out of seemingly hopeless full combo with extraordinary strength and grace…and kept lifting!! Style; impeccable.

Who can you see doing well on the woman’s side of the draw this year ?

Bettylou Sakura Johnson, Caitlin Simmers, Molly Picklum, Isabella Nichols and of course Steph, Carrisa, Tatiana.

Thanks Tommy, before I let you go, what have you been up to recently ?

TC: I’ve become a dogfather (laughs). I’m looking after a new dog.  It’s pretty involved, maybe I got in over my head with it ! Just still really getting into surfing and foiling really. Still just loving it..

Where are you living these days ?

Avalon but I surf all over, up and down.  And I’m coaching some kids.  Tom’s groms I call ’em.  I try to show them a different way of looking at things.  Some kids just want to know about the competition stuff though and if they do that’s what I give ’em (laughs)

You still teach meditation ?

TC: Yeah still doing that.

It really helps huh?

Yeah especially in a group setting it can be great.

Thanks Tom.

No worries.