If there was ever a single image that encapsulated the whole deal of surfing, surely Brock Little hurtling down the face of Waimea Bay during the 1990 Eddie Aikau would be it.
News is just filtering through Brock passed away surrounded by family and friends after a balls out battle against cancer, which was of course exactly what you’d expect from the man who once described big wave surfing as “the funnest thing ever”.
The tributes are starting to flow through on social media, the very medium he chose to share the news just over a month ago.
At the time it seemed out of odds with Brock’s perceived private persona, but man, the dude had a sense of humour.
Tracks had the good fortune of speaking to the man himself several times during his convalescence, and the distinct goofy chuckle was never too far away, even as conversation veered towards the seriousness of his condition.
Nor was the topic of Waimea, the same spot he admitted to falling in love with at the ripe old age of 13.
“You hear so much about how Waimea is irrelevant these days, but that last swell showed everyone what’s up with that wave. Once it gets over 20 feet like it did this week, when someone like Kelly frickin’ Slater couldn’t even get out there, that’s what I’m talking about. You wait until it’s over 20 feet, then let’s see you paddle out and look over the ledge. Easy my ass.”
More to come.
