There is one unproven theory that goes like this. There is a segment of the population who either used to surf or who wanted to surf. These people felt compelled to give it a go during the lockdown, for several reasons, explained below.
These people, who felt a push or a pull towards the water due to the pandemic, are known as Covidian Surfers, or Covidians.
Some people couldn’t play golf, so they went surfing instead. Others couldn’t go to the gym, so they took up surfing to keep the beefcake look going. In contrast, others migrated to the coast to get away from the utter claustrophobia of COVID-infected cities and started surfing in earnest when arriving at the beach.
For the surf industry, it has been a blessing, with hardgoods selling like hotcakes. Board makers and wetsuit manufacturers were best positioned when this mini-boom came. Still, surfers at their local breaks have been somewhat overrun by these newbies. We don’t want to judge though, we want to advise.
You can’t blame someone for wanting to find out what it means to be barelled, but you can politely let them know that the path to surfing’s innermost limits requires self-awareness and a degree of respect for those a little further along the road.
So here are some guidelines for the Covidians hitting every beach, peak, and lineup around the world. Read these pearls of wisdom, and maybe print them out and laminate them under the deck of your mini-mal.
Don’t Drop-In.
How hard is it? If someone is riding a wave, it’s not yours so don’t paddle for it, don’t take off on it, don’t ride it. Leave it alone.
Just because you’re big and brave does not give you ownership of any wave that someone else is on. It is the essence of surfing.
Don’t Ride Too Small A Board
It might be cool to buy a Kelly Slater model board or a JJF Model or something equally as smart and fancy as the top surfers are using every day, but you’re going to be in a situation of negative buoyancy. It’s likely you’re going to go over the falls with your inferior paddling ability and fundamental lack of wave catching skills. If you call people off and repeatedly blow a take-off they will become frustrated. If you blow a take-off because the board is too small and land on someone they will also react negatively. Preferably get a mid-length or better-still a foamie (they’re both pretty on-trend right now) and try and be less of a nuisance in the water.
Don’t hesitate. Otherwise, It’s Too Late.
If you see a wave coming and it looks like it has your name on it, then you have to make a courageous decision to give it your all to catch it. No messing around, no second thoughts, and no hesitating. So many over-the-falls disasters, flopped take-offs, wipe-outs onto the rocks and general whomping take place because non-committal surfers have hesitated while hovering around the lip. It’s also embarrassing. It’s a much better decision to charge and wipe-out than hesitate and pull back and look like a tool. If you don’t go then make it clear to the pack you have no intentions. A half paddle and a pull-back is a cardinal sin in a busy lineup.
Don’t Moan At A Kid
You’re new, you’re not established, and you have no idea how the hierarchy works at any beach. Moaning at a kid is not cool, even if he or she is a bit cheeky and sneaky in the lineup.
The real reason, however, is more than that. If you moan at a little kid for some minor indiscretion, then the little kid’s parents, older friends, and basic support group at the beach will not react well. If you are using bully tactics on kids because you don’t have the skill to compete with them, it’s likely you will be banished from the lineup.
When In Doubt, Don’t Paddle Out.
This should be the golden Covidian rule and would make so many sessions that much more pleasant. There is nothing worse than an inexperienced surfer out of his or her depth when the waves are heavy, big, super-crowded, or dangerously shallow. It is dangerous for you, as well as for fellow surfers. You might be once again enjoying the thrill and the fun of surfing, or even surfing for the first time and totally stoked. Still, there is nothing like getting into some serious trouble, not knowing what to do, and putting everyone, including yourself at risk to take away the fun of surfing forever.
If you have any negative feelings about a session, or if you’re unsure in any way, then play it safe and stay on the shore.
The C and B-grade waves are your best option
It’s presumptuous to assume that because you have a new board and wetsuit that the A-grade point or peak is immediately your new playground. Many of the surfers at these premium waves have spent a lifetime developing the skills and kudos to ride them. Many have suffered to get to that point. Perhaps, on a sub-par day you can hit the good peak, or on a better day if you are willing to claim the scraps. However, for the most part, you are better off picking the b-grade or less crowded break and making a pig of yourself with waves. That’s the best way to get your skills up to speed.
You can’t stem the tide of people falling in love with surfing or rekindling their desire. To be honest it’s possible to be stoked on the progress anyone is making in the water when you know they are making a sincere effort. Watching a beginner score a great ride can be inspiring – pure joy personified.
However, self-awareness from surfers at all levels is the key to preserving lineup harmony.
