“The unique climate of Hawaii; balmy not stifling, cool not cold, beautiful not garish, tuna not garfish…”

Back on the Rock. Same same but different. Rain sun, rain sun, sun rain, and so on. The unique climate of Hawaii; balmy not stifling, cool not cold, beautiful not garish, tuna not garfish. The Rock, where flat means four foot, and four foot means biggish. Incomparably fluffy cumulus clouds, like no where else, orange peach afternoon overhead hues, with purplish mauve shading, a watercolour painter’s dream.

Back on the Rock, no swell but plenty of it really, my paradigm and your paradigm not the same as theirs, and flat day fun is everywhere. Luscious blue green bays like aquatic fun parks. Velzyland is perfect three foot peaks with three guys surfing, guys and chicks SUPing [stand up paddle boarding] from shorey to horizon, kiteboarders flying and riding, swimmers and lovers and kiddies and fathers, beachpark barbies and sunset beers this arvie. Longboarders and bodysurfers and Pupukea the same, skimboarders and photographers and rippers and cruisers. Crazed inner tube shenanigans. Chicks in skimpy bikini bottoms barely covering their beautiful backsides.

The Rock, the vibe seems friendlier every year, and Aloha is here in spades, with shakas behind shades and replies to “Hey Brah” with “G’Day!” It’s fun everyday, even when we are waiting for some real waves… Until then it’s cold Corona’s and Pacifico’s and dinners at the infamous Turtle Bay restaurant Lei Lei’s.

Yes, I’m bracing myself for that first OTW-Pipe-Backdoor swim out, and yes, it’s butterflies and fear every year. Especially for that first time – after that it’s easier – just fear.

Fear swimming into that thick power zone.

Love hooking up in that thick power zone.

Love having swum into that thick power zone.

Love the Rock.

Sparksie

Dayan Neve and Kieren Perrow keep an eye on OTW.

Mick Fanning commits to the Off-The-Wall lottery.

Koa Smith goes for a little tube time.

Velzyland.

Velzyland dad.

Kaean Point quitting time.

Kam Highway.

Late dip at Velzyland.