Three days mincing and drinking in Hollywood then straight into a Jaws cavern.

Hippo and I partied in Hollywood for three nights before this swell! Not the best preparation for Jaws. Luckily it wasn’t a huge day, I dont think i could have dealt with it if it was much bigger ha ha There were still some really fun barrels though.

When your trying to get barreled at Jaws you really have to pick the right ones because not every wave barrels. You need the waves that come out of the west they bend and barrel on to the shallow end section on the reef.

Even though you’ve got yourself a west one your still freaking that it will crumble up and end up lipping you in the head. Its such a powerful wave and can do some serious damage even at this size.

If you pull up high for the barrel then there is no turning back. Once your in this position its too late to straighten out  you wont be able to out run the lip. Right here im just going please barrel please barrel hahaha

Best feeling in the world to be surrounded by this much water and energy. Right up until the lip starts to  chandelier like this the you cant see a thing and it just becomes plain scary!

Found the way out and feeling good again.

Scared again!

relieved!

– By Mark Mathews

All shots by Tim Bonython

Note: To follow Mark’s blogs go to chasingchalk.com