Big wave surfing is an incredible physical and mental challenge even for the bravest and best surfers in the world, most of which are considered physically able. Big wave surfing is an even greater challenge if you are blind.
Four time para surfing world champion Matt Formston was diagnosed with Macular Dystrophy at the age of five. It’s a rare condition that left him with only three percent vision. However, that has not stopped the Australian from dedicating his life to the ocean and his passion; surfing.
A new film titled ‘The Blind Sea’ takes a deep dive into Matt’s quest on his way to achieving the Guinness World Record for the largest wave surfed by a vision impaired male. The film is being shown at the Sydney Opera House next month as part of the First Wave Festival. You can purchase tickets for the screening here. The showing will also include a Q&A with Matt and Director Daniel Fenech.
Throughout the movie Matt works alongside big wave legends such as Dylan Longbottom and Lucas ‘Chumbo’ Chianca, while giving them an insight into what it’s like to surf with three percent vision.
To better understand Matt’s situation, Dylan Longbottom decided to try surfing while blind folded. Dylan is no stranger to XL waves and is often seen charging slabs across Australia or chasing swells at places like Teahupo’o or Nazare.
Dylan said that when it comes to fear factor, he puts the experience of surfing blind on par with some of the waves he’s had in Portugal or Tahiti.
“The first time we did it was in Fiji. I used a black blindfold and had zero vision. It was one of the scariest things I’ve ever done. We were surfing this three to five foot right hander over shallow reef. I wanted to start from the boat so I had to paddle across the channel with a spotter like Matty does and I just had to follow the voice as I couldn’t see.
“But it’s crazy because even if I paddled at a five degree difference to my original line I ended up paddling out to sea and the spotter is going ‘Dylan this way’ and I’m panicking. I was already filled with anxiety before I got to the lineup. It was a relief just to make it out there.”
He explained that the weightless sensation of rising over a wave was something he had never felt before and described it as a cool feeling.
“Then a proper wave comes and the spotter is trying to help me line myself up. I feel the wave pick me up and it just throws me over the falls into shallow water. So I come back up and I didn’t want to take the blindfold off as I really wanted to experience what Matt does.
“When Matt falls he has to try and get to the spotter in the channel while getting smashed. So I did the same, I was trying to duck dive off of feel and the noise and I eventually got back out. But again, I had so much anxiety and fear.”
After falling on his first three attempts, Dylan managed to make it to his feet on the fourth try.
“It was a cool sensation, a lifting sensation, one I’ve never felt as a surfer and it was really special. It’s something I’ll never forget. I was already mind blown about seeing what Matty does but then trying it yourself really makes you appreciate what he has to go through, not just in the surf but everyday life.”
