If Matahi Drollet claims he got the wave of his life at Teahupo’o then you know it must have been absolutely skits. Considering the Tahitians credentials at the end of the road, his previous rides were going to take some outdoing. However, earlier this week a large SSW swell filled in at Chopes for what was to be a contender for the session of the season.
As per usual, Matahi alongside fellow local Eimeo Czermak, were amongst the standouts of the swell relentlessly hucking themselves over the ledge at one of the most dangerous waves in the world. But it was one wave of Matahi’s that caught the attention of the surfing world. In the clip seen across Insta, Matahi makes the air drop look easy and then as he pulls into a thick square cavern, he is forced to wrestle with an evil foam ball which could’ve swallowed him whole. As he exits the tube, the foam ball pushes him high and he almost completely disconnects from his board clinging on with the grip of his toes and eventually gets spat out into the channel, with a look of disbelief on his face.
The local goofy-footer claims it was the wave of his life and you’d be hard pressed to argue against that. That wave, amongst many other A+ rides, were documented in Matahi’s latest YouTube edit, which was shot by Guy Mac.
Click the link above to watch.
