Whenever thick lumps of swell heave over this outer reef, a cast of wily regulars are at the ready.   

Over the years, the local specialists have become more brazen in their pursuit of the fat-lipped, muscular pits the spot is renowned for. Or as photographer Dean Wilmot put it, “The local boys charge hard”.

Although Dean spent more than a decade earning a rep as one of the best lensman at Pipe and Backdoor, he’d never shot out here before. Recently reacquainted with his camera rig, after an extended hiatus, once he’d heard about this wave, he had to experience it for himself. When the charts revealed a promising east coast swell coinciding with winds flickering auspiciously west, Deano bolted south, equipped with little more than a couple of phone contacts and vague directions about how to get to the reef.

Photogs typically hitch a ride on a ski to get out here, however by the time Dean found the boat-ramp, almost all the ski teams had been launched. One driver promised to come back and pick him up but never returned. In the end his only option was to make the long, lonely swim across a sharky ditch to the offshore reef. Out in the water, a helmeted Deano figured out his markers and marvelled at the bold antics of the surfers. Deano flippered hard to stay in the zone, struggling to contain his excitement as he took aim with his camera. However, after a while his legs became so cramped up they felt like concrete pylons attached to his torso. He was a long way out without anyone really watching his back.

Noa Deane wrestling with an unfriendly foam ball. Photo: Sam Venn.

Fortunately, he secured a ride in with Josh Gallagher who put him on a sled ...