ADVERTISEMENT
Photo: Helio Antonio.

Story behind the shot – When Nazaré Revealed Its Secret Slab

A once in a lifetime experience?
Reading Time: 2 minutes

Nazaré is known for extremes: one season a sleepy fishing village, the next a death-defying big-wave arena. Somewhere in between it even dishes out user-friendly beach break barrels. But one side it hasn’t shown for more than a decade is a rare right-hand slab.

When the photo popped up on my feed, the last place I would’ve guessed it came from was Nazaré. To get the story, I hit up local photographer Helio Antonio.

“It was September 2013. The summer was ending and a huge, rare sandbank had built up on the south side of the headland. There was so much sand that it actually created a beach connecting North Beach and the town beach — something the old locals said had last happened in the early 1900s.”

The last place you’d have guessed this to be is Nazaré. Photo: Helio Antonio.

With the first swells of September, that sandbank came alive.

“There were three different sessions while it lasted,” Helio told me. “On one of them, the waves were gnarly. Not massive, but super heavy — thick barrels running along the narrow sandbank straight toward the rocks. The best ones were five to ten seconds long with no room for error, or you’d end up on the cliff. I don’t think that specific spot had ever been surfed before.”

When it was smaller, the wave softened into something far more inviting.

“The other two sessions were pretty fun. It only broke on the final sandbank, which had a huge beach with lots of room to fall and no rocks. A totally different vibe.”

That looks a lot more inviting.

But the slab was fleeting.

“It never broke like this again. A very uncommon phenomenon. We sometimes get a decent sandbank further down the cliff near the main beach, but it’s a completely different wave and nowhere near as consistent. We were lucky — maybe a once-in-a-lifetime experience. I’m just grateful I was there with my camera.”

Nazaré is a place of many faces, but even for the locals, it can still reveal something new.

ADVERTISEMENT
ADVERTISEMENT
SUBSCRIBE TO TRACKS
A bi-monthly eclectic tome of tangible surfing goodness that celebrates all things surfing, delivered to your door!
SUBSCRIBE NOW
SUBSCRIBE TO TRACKS
An eclectic tome of tangible surfing goodness that celebrates all things surfing, delivered to your door!
SUBSCRIBE NOW

LATEST

March has been non stop action on the Goldy.

Surfing rockstar double act Kyuss and Rasmus King, alongside talented drummer Bon, are making waves in the Aussie rock and grunge scene.

Part one of the series into what life is like living on a boat exploring the world and its waves with JJF.

Two 22-year-olds. Four countries. One borrowed tripod and $500. Lost in Central isn’t about perfect waves it’s about what it costs to reach them.

ADVERTISEMENT

PREMIUM FEATURES

Why Milla Coco Brown’s unfiltered, full-throttle approach has everyone paying attention.

The tight-knit brothers redefining the scope of a modern surfer.

Three decades behind the lens with Andrew Buckley.

Joel Parkinson 2001 - Tavarua Island portrait and Cloudbreak carve.

TRACKS PREMIUM

Get full access to every feature from our print issues, read classic Tracks issues from the 70s, 80s and 90’s, watch all of our classic films & more …

TRACKS PREMIUM

Get full access to every feature from our print issues, read classic Tracks issues from the 70s, 80s and 90’s, watch all of our classic films & more …

CLASSIC ISSUES

PREMIUM FILM

YEAR: 2008
STARRING: JOEL PARKINSON, MICK FANNING AND DEAN MORRISON

This is the last time the original cooly kids were captured together and features some of their best surfing.

Their rivalry helped push each of them onto the world stage but their friendship endured. This is the last time the original cooly kids were captured together and features some of their best surfing.

A film by Shaggadelic Productions

This is a Premium Feature only available to Tracks subscribers.

Existing Subscriber?  Login here.
YEAR: 2011
STARRING: DAVID RASTOVICH, OZZIE WRIGHT, CRAIG ANDERSON, RY CRAIKE, DEAN MORRISON & MORE

Seven free surfers embark on a voyage to boldly go where no man had gone before.

Seven free surfers embarked on a voyage to boldly go where no man had gone before.

Not that long ago, in an island chain far, far away, seven free surfers embarked on a voyage to boldly go where no man had gone before. Equipped with an array of surfboards, a packet of crayons and two ukuleles, their chances of success were slim. In pursuit of perfection, they were forced to navigate under the radar of a fleet of imperial boat charters. Despite numerous obstacles, the rebel alliance of wave-riding beatniks continued to make Galactik Tracks into a new surfing cosmos; their search for a Nirvana reaching its climax when they arrived at… The Island of Nowhere.

A film by Tom Jennings

This is a Premium Feature only available to Tracks subscribers.

Existing Subscriber?  Login here.
YEAR: 2014
STARRING: DAVE RASTOVICH

The film features the enigmatic and free-thinking Dave Rastovich at home on the Far North Coast of NSW.

Gathering is a short film from independent filmmaker Nathan Oldfield, the creator of the award-winning left of centre surf films Lines From a Poem, Seaworthy and The Heart & The Sea. The film features the enigmatic and free-thinking Dave Rastovich at home in the sacred playgrounds of the Far North Coast of New South Wales. The film explores Rastovich’s ideas around how the tension between the industrial and the natural in the surfing world unfolds in that place. Ultimately, Gathering celebrates how diversity and difference in ecosystems, relationships and surfing contribute to the preciousness of life. Gathering is easy on the eyes and ears and Tracks Magazine is proud to present it to you. Nathan Oldfield is a maverick, a filmmaker who wants a surf movie to say something important, to move us and make us grateful for the sea around us and the life within us. His films are quiet, beautiful and brimming with sacred purpose. Tim Winton, Acclaimed Australian Novelist

This is a Premium Feature only available to Tracks subscribers.

Existing Subscriber?  Login here.
YEAR: 2015
STARRING: MIKEY WRIGHT, LOUIE HYND, OWEN WRIGHT, CREED MCTAGGART & CAST OF THOUSANDS

In this quintessentially Australian film, the two friends ride waves with the nation’s best surfers.

From dreamy, north coast points to nights beneath starlit desert skies follow Luke Hynd and Mikey Wright as they embark on a surfing odyssey. In this quintessentially Australian film, the two friends ride waves with the nation’s best surfers, down beers with cantankerous locals and visit some of the more innocuous nooks of the continent’s rugged fringes. Wanderlust lets you rediscover the country and the coastline you love. Be careful, you might even be inspired to toss it all in and embark on your own journey around The Great Southern Land.

This is a Premium Feature only available to Tracks subscribers.

Existing Subscriber?  Login here.
ADVERTISEMENT
ADVERTISEMENT

PRINT STORE

Unmistakable and iconic, the Tracks covers from the 70s & 80s are now ready for your walls.

Tracks