This much we’ve garnered in broken English from Paulo, our affable Portuguese driver. The contest is sponsored by a restaurant and we must go there for lunch.

At Paulo’s insistence we dump our bags at the stylish Evolution Hotel, which overlooks the Atlantic in Estoril, a hip beachside suburb just south of Cascais, Portugal. We are just around the corner from the Casino Estoril, and the Hotel Palacio, which was the International Allied spy headquarters during World War II. It was here that author, Ian Fleming, whilst working for British Intelligence, got his inspiration for his first James Bond novel, Casino Royale.

Nathan Hedge and I are on a different kind of special assignment, but the urgency makes it feel a little like a Bond mission. We’ve just spent 24-hours in transit from Sydney to Lisbon. Before that we’d been given 12-hours notice to get our asses on a plane because the swell was coming.

We are in Portugal for the 10th anniversary of the Capitulo Perfeito, a one-day event with a two-month waiting period and a singular judging criteria – how well you ride the tube. Several of the world’s most celebrated barrel riders are also flying in from around the world. All have one job – get mindlessly pitted for a day at Carcavelos, a vibrant city beach with a stretch of A-frame peaks – picture Sth Straddie on steroids with a carnival atmosphere.   

City beach vibes with barrels and a 16th century fort. The eclectic scene at Carcavelos has something for everyone. Photos: Andre Carvalho

Anyway back to lunch, which I’m kind of bummed about.

When I’d learned the contest was sponsored by a restaurant, I assumed the local fast-food franchise had chipped in to help with the costs for flying in all these surfers. I had ...