Shipstern Bluff is a menacing slab even on its best of days when the conditions are perfectly aligned. The multiple steps in the wave make it a challenge, even for the most seasoned slab hunters. However, when it’s on it’s usually relatively busy with paddlers, boogs and crews towing. Every so often, a huge swell will light up Tasmania and due to tricky winds or a slight change in direction, Shippies will turn extra evil and it keeps pretty much 90% of the crowd away.
However, there is always a few crew that are willing to push the boundaries of what is possible out there and last Friday those surfers were Mikey Brennan, Tyler Hollmer-Cross, Kipp Caddy, Noah Hassett and George Vanderkelen.
The same swell that has been lighting up the Victoria for days on end, reached Shippies and turned it extra evil.
Mikey got the wave of the day and landed a classic Shippies shot as he launched himself off a menacing looking step, projecting himself about ten feet in the air before trying to stick the landing but unfortunately not making it. He was then engulfed by the wave which sent him down to the reef and knocked him unconscious.
The 38-year-old Tassie charger said it was the most ‘extreme’ wipeout he’s ever experienced and described the intensity of the situation as overwhelming.
“I knew there was some super big ones out there. I’d already had a massive one which I pulled off the back of as it looked pretty sketchy and in conditions like these I try to play it pretty smart. I managed a little one after that and then I got whipped into that huge one where I went over the step. After that I don’t really remember much but I was knocked unconscious for about five minutes, I think I hit the reef because I had marks on my head and shoulder.
“When I first came to I didn’t remember who the boys were and was a bit all over the place, but after a few more minutes I came round properly. I went home later that day and felt pretty rough so I went to hospital on the Friday night. I just had a headache and a concussion, so I got pretty lucky.”
While Mikey has broken his back before surfing XL waves, he said this was the closest he’s come to death and the first time he’d been knocked unconscious while surfing.
“It was super rogue, far from perfect and when it’s like that the conditions are extra dangerous. However, I was keen to have a crack and I know a couple of the boys who are always down to have a go too.”
After a session Mikey would usually accompany the boys for a few post-surf beers. However, he’s now a month into sobriety as he aims to stop suppressing his feelings with smoking and alcohol. Some of those feelings are centered on particular traumatic experiences he had during his childhood.
“I’ve been sober for about a month now and I’ve been coming to terms with how I was using alcohol and smoking to suppress my feelings. I’ve been training lots, doing meditation and breath work and really been able to focus my energy into my surfing. I felt a lot more in tune out there, I was able to focus on my breath in between waves. It was refreshing to challenge myself in that size swell and I really believe that by focusing my energy into these positive things, it’s leading to more positive outcomes.”
After being released from hospital Mikey has spent the past couple days taking it easy, but says he will be ready to try his luck when the opportunity arises again.
