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The serenity of palms gently swaying in tropical tradewinds belies the intensity of an unknown surfer’s charge across the reef at Pipe. Photo: Ryan Craig.

How to get hyped for the Hawaiian Winter

A reminder of what's to come.
Reading Time: 4 minutes

It’s hard to fathom how many glorious, winter rides the Hawaiians enjoyed before Europeans arrived in 1778, but the concept of a ‘Hawaiian Winter’ really became a part of modern, surfing consciousness in the 1950s.

After deciphering Makaha on the west side of Oahu, a crew of intrepid Californians including Greg Noll, Pat Curren, Fred Van Dyke, Mickey Munoz, Ricky Grigg and Buzzy Trent amongst others, shifted focus to Oahu’s Northern fringes. In many ways it was a conquest as bold as the efforts of Norgay and Hillary to scale Everest. Maybe, a similar faculty of human nature was at work. The part of us that simply wonders ‘Can the mountain be climbed?’ ‘Can the wave be ridden?’   

Their pioneering wave plundering marked the beginning of one of the world’s most reliable, annual human pilgrimages. Every year for the last seven decades, surfers have travelled to Hawaii for winter, sometimes propelled as much by a sense of duty as the pursuit of pleasure. Their exploits attract the attention of a secondary tribe of photographers, filmers and scribes. Not surprisingly, there is no place in surfing that has been more heavily documented or mythologised.

Koa Rothman waltzing with Pipe; a dance surfers have been trying to perfect for decades. Photo: Mike Ito.

These days, you can livestream a session at Pipe and debate the merits of a ride in real time, as you slurp a mid-morning coffee in Noosa. Although there will never be any substitute for the self-knowledge derived from experiencing the waves for yourself, more than ever it seems possible to live vicariously through others, and to understand ‘Hawaii’ as a state of mind, without ever travelling there.

But however much we hype and celebrate Hawaii as the perennial provider of surfing action, some seasons undeniably bear more fruit than others. For those with the requisite skill level, the winter just past was exceptional. You know it’s been pumping when John Florence calls it the best season he can remember, as he did in our Tracks interview with him. While other mediums compete for space in your internal hard drive, it’s arguable there is no better way to immortalise a classic Hawaiian winter, and those who devoted themselves to it, than with photos.

With swell on the way and another North Shore Season pending, we take a look back at some of our favourite shots from last year’s Hawaiian winter which featured in Issue 602 of our mag. Check them out below.

Ned Hart reaches for the parachute chord as he contemplates a shallow-water landing at Backdoor Pipe. Photo: Ryan Craig.
Makana Pang flirting with the shock-wave as Pipe wraps him in a silvery embrace. Photo: Mike Ito.
Participants in the opening ceremony of the Eddie Aikau invitational link hands and channel the spirit of Hawaiian surfing. Photos: Mike Ito.
Makua Rothman feeling the moment. Photo: Mike Ito.
Local boy, Landon McNamara celebrating his win in The Eddie. Photo: Mike Ito.
Harry Bryant vaulting. Photo: Marcus Paladino.
Bethany Hamilton picking her line through the electric-blue billow at Pipe. Photo: Josh Bystrom.
Orbital survey of the Pipe playing field. Photo: Ryan Craig.
Mason Ho throwing an audacious hand-jive as Waimea nips at his heels. Photo: Mike Ito.
Riku Matsumoto’s slack-limbed navigation of surfing’s most famous inner-sanctum. Photo: Mike Ito.
Eithan Osborne going beyond. Photo: Ryan Craig.
Riku Matsumoto lancing a boil as he makes a gradient appraisal of a sheer, Pipe wall. Photo: Dean Wilmot.
Seth Moniz paying tribute at the Pipeline shrine. Photo: Mike Ito.
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