Every surfer struggles to balance a committed surfing life with their inevitable responsibilities. Some manage, some don’t. For Damien Hodge, finding that balance has taken him all around the world through addiction, loneliness, and despair, and ultimately, back to himself.
Damien Hodge stared at the headless, limbless body from the edge of the helicopter pad.
He was close enough to confirm the details for the incident report, but still far enough to run to the safe room should this be an ambush from one of the tribespeople.
It had been dawning on Damien for a while now that he was in way over his head. The dead body absolutely confirmed it. He was not equipped to keep 2000 staff on this remote PNG oil and gas field fed and watered and safe from tribal warfare and irate locals who were convinced it was them, the white man, who had introduced this black COVID magic to their lands.
He was just an environmental guy, a surfer from Cronulla trying to find a way to keep the dream alive. Travelling the world and riding waves. Finding means to get paid and seek thrills when he wasn’t in the ocean.
The young competitor with the polished style.Damien was a talented surfer in his youth, and for a brief period in the 80s was sponsored by Billabong and competed on the WQS. Ultimately, he eschewed professional surfing for a more conventional trajectory – university, job, career – and like every surfer, it’s been a struggle for him to balance the competing forces – responsibilities and pleasure, debilitation and passion – of a committed surfing life.
That struggle to find balance is a journey that has taken him around the world, through addiction, loneliness, near mental breakdown, and ultimately, back to himself and the things that bring him happiness.
Surfing was destined to be a part of Damien’s life. At least, it felt that way when he was five years old and walking the trail to the beach near his grandparent’s home in Sussex ...
